Estudo das ondas oceânicas na praia de Xai-Xai

Abstract

The work is basically about the study of waves at Xai-Xai beach, the parameters analyzed were: the height, period, frequency and the energy of the waves. At the end of this report are measures to mitigate the negative impacts that waves have on the coast. On the days when measurements were made, the significant heights were 1.40m 1.32m by the theoretical method and 0.78m and 0.99m by the practical method for November and December respectively, with these results it was concluded that the significant height of the waves after crossing the rock to the land at Xai-Xai beach is about 1m. The maximum values of the wave energy were 2876J / m2 by the theoretical method and 1820J / m2 by the practical method. With these values it was concluded that the waves at Xai-Xai beach are strong, of this energy the rock dissipates about 50%, thus it can be said that the rock is an economically and ecologically important structure, since it gives stability to the beach. The maximum periods of the waves were about 4 seconds by the theoretical method and around 2 seconds for direct measurement with the gauge, these are typical results of short waves. The most frequent waves after impact on the rock are those that are less than 0.85m high. The ebb currents are greater than those of the flood, so it is extremely dangerous to swim at depths that exceed the chest because the probability of being dragged into the deeper waters is greater.