Estudo do comportamento das ondas de grande amplitude da praia de Tofo na cidade de Inhambane

Abstract

The present work talks about the behavior of the large amplitude wave at Tofo beach in the city of Inhambane. Its objectives are to study the behavior of large amplitude waves in order to analyze the distribution of wave heights, and to propose the measures of reduction of the waves of great amplitude, to reach these objectives was done survey of the heights of the waves, investigation and the zoning of the safe area. Through the existence of these large waves, the present work was carried out to contribute to the production and development of the scientific knowledge in the country in this matter, and foundations for the precaution of the coastal processes in Tofo beach in the period when there is a lot of adherence of the tourists. Results found indicate that the maximum height recorded in all oscillations was 0.18 m and minimum height was 0.06 m. During the auscultation the drowning was obtained as one of the greatest impacts in that place, caused by the waves, others indicated the drunkenness and with a lower percentage also the lack of experience in swimming. As being the best strategy for the reduction of large wave amplitude being the construction of coastal engineering works breakwater parallel to the coast a little earlier in the place of the bathers where it will help in the process of diffraction of the waves.