Estudo da erosão costeira na praia do Tofo

Abstract

Coastal erosion is a phenomenon that has drastically devastated Tofo beach. In this work, we tried to determine the contribution of the main erosive agents that act on that beach. Thus, as a methodological approach, the work used the Bijicker equation to determine the sediment transport rate on the beach taking into account waves, currents and tides. The work used values ​​of wind speed and direction to explain the transport of sediments by the wind. Sand glanulometry, energy, power, maximum significant wave height, breaking depth and backshore flooding were determined. Topographic surveys were carried out to quantify the volume of sediment removed in a stretch of Praia do Tofo in the period from 2006 to 2008. In situ and aerial images were also used in the study. Thus, the work concludes that the agents that contribute to the erosion process at Praia do Tofo are the waves, the tides, the wind and the Man; but of these, waves are the main erosive agent. More than 90% of sediment transport by sea is on the bottom and is a direct function of currents. The work also concluded that the waves that break on the beach are quite energetic and flood the beach more when it is slightly inclined, and in the last two years, all identified erosive agents have removed about 15,202.7 cubic meters of sand.(TRADUÇÃO NOSSA)